Thursday, March 24, 2005

Live Animal Sacrifice

Live animal sacrifices used to be considered a good thing in the Judeo-Christian tradition. Nowadays, most would find it barbaric and archaic. However, there are still some places and peoples who perform this ancient ritual today.

In 1996, I spent a few months traveling the Middle East, in Egypt, Israel/Palestine, and Jordan. Every year around April 22, the Samaritan Passover ceremony is held on Mount Gerizim. This is one day before/after the Jewish Pesach (Passover) holiday. Mount Gerazim is up the hill from Nablus, the largest Palestinian West Bank city. The top of Mt. Gerizim, however, is like a "fourth world" country -- neither Israeli/Jew nor Palastininan/Arab/Muslim. It's a special zone for the ancient Samaritan sect.

Yes, the Samaritans are where we get the phrase "good samaritan" from.

There're only a few hundred Samaratins left. They have a small, urbanized community called Holon near Tel Aviv, and their holy land "reservation" atop Mt. Gerizim.

After a hellish day of hitchhiking and sketchy taxi rides across checkpoints -- from Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee, through Nazareth, dusty and tension-filled Jenin, and finally Nablus -- we hiked and hitched our way to the top of Gerizim. The view was rewarding, overlooking Nablus and a green valley ... Unfortunately, there was no water for sale, and we were parched in the muggy, overcast afternoon. We met up with an American grad student doing a thesis on the Samaritans, and he was able to introduce us to a family who provided us with a jug of well water and a seat to relax. We spoke about the pending ceremony and were told by one of the elder Samaritans that "God always opens a hole in the sky to accept the sacrifice."

Now I'm a reasonably cynical fellow. I don't believe miracles and supernatural happenings are not possible, but when I hear someone telling me they've seen one, well, I just can't help saying "uh huh, sure." We thanked them for the water and went to sit in the spectator seats near the sacrificial grounds.

There was dancing and singing and chanting and guys in some pretty cool outfits. White with brightly colored trim, and nice but simple hats. After an hour or so, there were 48 sheep herded into the sacrifice area. The tension mounted as the goats were held steady for a long time while everything was prepared and checked for perfection. Finally, with one quick and quiet (blink and you'd miss it) group movement, the throats of the sheep were sliced open with daggers. My companion tapped my shoulder and pointed at the sky. Above us, the overcast dusk sky had a cloud break, and a circle of dark blue sky appeared.

Hmm.

After the live animal sacrifice, the participants relaxed and the audience began to mill about, taking photos. Fires were lit in the giant pits, and the barbecue began.

Unfortunately, the Samaritans don't share the BBQ meat with outsiders, so unless I come back as a Samaritan in the next life, I won't get a chance to try this unique feast.

Find out more about the Samaritans and Mount Gerizim.

After the ceremony we had to ask around for a ride to Jerusalem, and I'd like to thank the group of American Mormons who let us take a seat on their half-empty air conditioned tour bus -- even though they made us pitch in for gas.



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