Shanghai Restaurants: Top 10 Favorites

(or ... 10 Restaurants in Shanghai That Don't Suck)

WeirdMeat received a lot of feedback about our public disapproval of Shanghai cuisine. Some good, some bad, but no one (as of this writing) has offered any solution or suggestion that there is something good about Shanghai cuisine. Maybe we're right? Seems like they even admit it. We've challenged many a Shanghai friend to find us a decent Shanghainese meal, but they always suggest Sichuan or Cantonese or Xinjiang food. (I'll write about Xinjiang food soon, you'll be delighted to hear about the texture of raw sheep heart and the vertical penis tasting!)

[enter generic pic of shanghai skyline]

One popular Shanghai dish, for example, is ... pork cuts, deep-fried with a crunchy corn meal coating. Over that, they pour a sickly sweet mayonnaise, and then -- the horror -- they sprinkle those little rainbow-sprinkles that kids like to put on cheap ice cream sundaes.

Another example -- for breakfast -- they have these street food vendors that make crepes. The crepes are very greasy -- squeeze them and yellow oil pours out like it's a sponge. But it's the combination of what goes inside that's revolting -- sugary-sweet thick brown gravy, bits of fried pork, green onions, pickled vegetables, eggs, and then more sugar spooned on top. Beverage of choice? How about some chocolate milk? Mmmm. I guess you might want something to get the bowels moving in the morning, but isn't this a bit extreme?

But ... we've been living in Shanghai for several years now, so we've found a way to survive the dining scene here, (partly by making several trips a year to other cities to make sure we're not just jaded).

WeirdMeat was previously a restaurant critic -- here and in the States -- for (don't say it) more reputable publications, and we've done a bit of globetrotting, so we've had a lot of experience eating all sorts of cuisines. Mom's an eclectic cook too, we grew up eating all sorts of yummy homemade food, from falafel to fajitas to fufu to fun chow. We know good food, no matter where it's from.

So here's a list our current favorite 10 restaurants in Shanghai. Shanghai's a big place, so this isn't a list of what I feel are the "best," because I haven't tried enough to make that judgment. But these places are good. (Not in order, just a list). And we'll update this when it's necessary...

1. Charmant (Taiwanese Chinese) - Also see Bellagio, 3 locations, which appears to be the inspiration for Charmant. They're all pretty good. Taiwanese takes on various Chinese cuisines, the desserts are stand-outs. Excellent service. Affordable but nice enough for just about any occasion short of a honeymoon. Corner of Huaihai and Fuxing xi lu.

2. Hengshan Cafe (Cantonese) - Despite the frequent service break-downs, the food here is some of the best homestyle Cantonese food we've had anywhere. The daily soups are darn cheap but the best in town -- hearty and comforting. Some things are a miss on this menu, including the BBQ meats that are showcased, but there's enough good stuff on the menu here to warrant frequent visits. 308 Hengshan lu, plus new locations.

3. Lisboa Macau Restaurant (Macau) - Macau-style food, a brilliant blend of Cantonese and Portuguese. So much good stuff on this menu, from the won-ton soup to the African chicken. The ice milk coffee is so delicious but will keep you awake for a day or two. Inside the Times Square building basement on Huaihai Lu. There are other locations, but this one seems to be the best of them. Too bad some of the best items on the menu have been taken off because of the worldwide cod fish shortage.

4. Casanova/Velvet Lounge (Pizza/Italian) - Sorry, Jimix got the axe, after 4 recent disappointing visits. We think the best pizza in Shanghai is at Casanova above the Velvet Lounge. They got other good Italian dishes here too, like pastas and salads, and they get extra points for pouring a decent house red in a full size glass. Julu lu @ Changshu lu. * Also check out Da Marco, who's pizza rivals this one.

5. Vedas (north Indian) - The best Indian food we've had in China, and it's even better than almost all the North Indian restaurants we went to in America. Jianguo xi lu near Wulumuqi lu.

6. Xiao Nan Guo (Shanghainese food in a bath house) - Any first-time visitor to China should try to fit in a few hours at one of the grand bath houses like Xiao Nan Guo. For under $10 USD, you get to use the saunas and hot tubs, grooming facilities, and for a little extra you can get a variety of massages, or book a private room and stay overnight. One of the foot massage rooms even has a stage variety show that can be amusing -- acrobat shows followed by burlesque shows, despite the fact that this is a family-friendly place -- (watching the family kids copying the moves the sexy Russian dancers do will make most foreigners blush). The unexpected thing is that the restaurant at Xiao Nan Guo is some of the best food you can get in Shanghai. This is really the only Shanghainese restaurant we actually get excited about. The wait service still sucks, but after a couple hours of relaxing in the sauna, you're too blissed out to care. Several locations, but we frequent the one at 3337 Hongmei Lu (by Yan'An Xi Lu) in Hongqiao/Gubei. (Shanghai Uncle got the ax, they've gone downhill sorry.)

7. Saleya (French bistro) - We (used to) love this place! It's a quiet little colorful bistro, so classic, and it's affordable enough for a weekly visit. The duck confit and creme brulee are tops in the town. Changle lu near Xiangyang lu. (* 2008 update -- eh, sorry guys, another good restaurant that's going downhill, last few visits were really disappointing.)

8. Yuxin (Sichuan Chinese) - After trying all the Sichuan places, this new-comer kicks it! The tea-smoked duck is similar to but far superior to Peking Duck, imho. And the water-cooked fish is the best. Inside the STV tower on Weihai lu.

9. Rendezvous (Singapore/Penang Malaysian) - Closed. Too bad.

9. Southern Barbarian (Yunnan Chinese) - Yes! Finally. The other Yunnan restaurants in Shanghai didn't do it for us (with the exception of a few fine dishes at Lost Heaven). Southern Barbarian opened their new location on Maoming, north of Ruijin lu. Affordable, friendly, yummy! Also has best beer selection for any restaurant in Shanghai.

10. House of Canton (Dim Sum). 4th floor of Isetan shopping mall on Nanjing Xi Lu. Despite the generic, old-school sounding name, this place is modern and minimally gorgeous, and very civilized. The dim sum here is our current favorite in town. While the menu is short, everything is top notch and reasonably priced, especially considering the atmosphere, service, and quality.

... still looking. Got any recommendations? Send a comment!

P.S. Found an interesting article about the history of Shanghai cuisine, but I'm unconvinced there's a renaissance of new, good food going on here ... yet. Read the article.

If you know of any lists of Best Shanghai Restaurants, or just want to share your favorites, post in the comments below...