Mekong Lobster and the Giant Squilla

Phnom Penh, Cambodia, September 2004

I was catching the sunrise over the Mekong River this morning and on the banks a man approached me with a basket filled with small crabs, and what looked like a shrimp the size of my forearm. I'd never seen a shrimp that size, with foot-long antenne and a long, slender claw. He wanted USD $20 for it. I figured this was a ridiculous price, but I rushed back to my hotel to pick up some cash and ask a local friend for guidance. I was told this is actually a fresh-water Mekong Lobster, and I could find some at the big central market.

So I jumped on a moto and scooted over to the market and found some. There was only one vendor who had a real selection of them. The lowest price I could get for the Mekong Lobster (which looks more like a gigantic shrimp to me, than a lobster) was USD $6. I also scored a giant squilla, which is another crustacean -- a long, rectangular shell on top, colored purple and white. Also around $6. Brought them, squirming alive, back to the hotel restaurant and asked the staff what we could do with them.



Twenty minutes later, I was sitting down with a nice chilled French chardonnay and one of the best meals I've ever had. Seriously! The lobster was cooked in a freshly-made saffron-cream sauce, and the squilla in a citron, salt and Kampot pepper crust. Despite the massive size, I had no problem eating both of these, as the taste and texture were so sublime. I've paid $100 back home for a prime lobster -- this was better. And the hotel restaurant refused to charge me, except for the wine, since I'd bought the massive critters at the market myself. My father was kind enough to video me eating, so I'll post that here soon, in a few years when watching video online is a reasonable option.